Looking at some of the pictures on this site I have come to the conclusion that there are some very creative people here.
So I am wondering what is your next DIY project?

I'm going to be doing a tank stand and sump eventually, I will post pics when I actually get the project started. :laugh:

Tell us what you plan on doing or creating, or even what you have done in the past.

Ok, Ive started a Wet & dry sump fed by a 2000 l/p/h powerhead which will then gravity feed back into the tank. I have started it (not finished) and have found my return needs to be reasonably big (35mm), tomorrow Im off to get some fittings and pipe and hopefully will be able to install it all tomorrow. Im using a 20 litre tub for the sump and using seedling trays for my media etc. within the sump. and I made a spray bar from 19mm retic pipe and fittings which works really well. The retic pipe just happens to fit snuggly over the PH outlet so I only have to clamp it on.

Pics will follow when its done, fortunately I am able to do this as my 6x2x2 is flush with the wall in my lounge but within a fish room on the other side otherwise it would look terrible, but it is a good option for any fish room.

Should cost less than $50 AUS by the time its done biggest cost being the powerhead @ $20.

(Ive had this on my mind for ages, I think I bought the tub 6 months ago and just finally got to start it :woo: )

my next project will be a canopy for my big tank. i have been meaning to build one for awhile now just haven't had the time.

Here is what I'm figuring on doing for my tank stand. For the top and shelves I will be using 2X6 deckwood planks, the uprights will be 4X4's.







The top diagram is a top view. The blue outline is the total surface, the black outline is the tank's footprint, the black boxes are the 4X4 supports. There will be a 6 inch lip around the tank.
The bottom diagram is the front view. The top shelf is for foods etc, the bottom is for the sump filter. I will probably enclose it to help with sound controal, it depends on how noisy the sump is and how long my husband can handle it. :laugh:

looks like a good start dtroup, the only thing i would suggest is to skin the sides and back for added lateral support.

What size tank is going on It?

i think this is for the 55 she got awhile back.

Yes it's for the 55gal, with a 20g sump. I am debating wether I need aditional supports in the middle. If I do it might be difficult to get the sump onto the bottom shelf.

Any opinions?

Good start, though you may need some support around the perimeter edges of the tank. Most modern glass tanks are supported by the edges, the bottom being slightly raised, around 3/8". If you took some of the 2x6's, and put them around the perimeter of the tank with the 6" dimension vertically, you should have enough support to get by without having to put in a center leg. Much easier for installing the sump.

Here's a pic of the bottom of a rack I built with a 55 on the bottom, 2x4 treated deck lumber. You can see the center support, it is needed;




Here's a pic of the top of the rack, with a couple of 20's. The center deflects around 1/4" towards the center.



If I ever want to put another 55 in place of the 20's, I would run the center support to the upper level. The tanks load from the side, so it wouldn't be a problem. The 20's being out of level a little doesn't bother me much, basement fishroom, used tanks I got cheap.

You can see that the 2x4 will deflect with 40 gallons of weight on it, using the 4", which actually measures out to 3 1/2", as a support around the edges. Using the 2" dimension as a support, which actually measures out to 1 1/2" will definitely deflect under the weight of a 55. I have 1/2" treated plywood on top of the rack frames, just in case I want to put a 10 where the 20 is, or a 30 on top.

The 4x4 legs are kind of overkill, I like that if it’s going to be in a living space where water leakage could be costly. I used 2x4’s, if something leaks badly, all I get is a small creek across the concrete to the floor drain. The one tank that is not in the fishroom is in the living room, a 65 with center legs with doubled up 2x4’s. If that tank ever leaks it would cost me a bundle in home repair. Stick with the 4x4 legs for a finished living space, and run some of the 2x6’s around the tank perimeter. I second the idea of skinning it, to give it some diagonal support. Triangles are the strongest building shape there is, take a look at a steel bridge next time you drive over one.

Well, the lumber is 2X6 pressure treated deck planks that we salvaged from a 2 yr old deck and the 4X4's are from the same deck, all free. We planned on laying 3 of the 2X6's side by side for the top, I suppose that I could add a 2X4 frame on the under side for support of the tank but I thought that the pressure treated 2X6's would be strong enough.
I can only make it about 2 1/2 feet tall so that I can reach the bottom of the tank without a stepstool.
We will be using 1/4" X 2 1/2 or 3" lag bolts, countersunk, to assemble it.
The tank glass is fairly thick, between 1/4 and 1/2", it's a heavy SOB!
Hubby will probably insist on enclosing it with 1/4 or 1/2" plywood on at least 3 sides for sound controal.
It will be going into the livingroom and we rent so I better make it as sturdy as possible. :laugh:

Free lumber for tank stands is awesome! If you've got it, use it, & overbuild it. If you have extra 2x6's for the perimeter, put them vertically around the edge of the tank, under the horizontal ones. That will make it plenty strong without a center leg. You don't need any support in the center, as long as the bottom panel of the tank is raised slightly higher than the edges. Look at the black iron stands most shops sell for 55's, they have nothing but perimeter support.

A 55 is 625 pounds full per All-Glass. I weigh a little over 200 pounds, and know I can get some give out of a 2x6 with the 6" facing up on a 4 foot span. That sucker is rock solid up on edge. If it's going in a finished living space you want rock solid.

If you have the extra wood, use it, just to err on the side of caution.

I see what you're saying Tolak, if I put the 4X4's inset the width of the 2X6's it should work.
If my figures are right I'm looking at about 39 to 51 board feet of lumbar not including the 4X4's.
Thanks for the heads-up.